10 THINGS TO KNOW - TDP
Torres del Paine National Park is one of the most famous parks in Patagonia.
There are many options for trekkers, albeit walking your choice of multi-day circuit or day trips.
It's recent accessibility has caused an explosion in tourism.
Do your research and plan ahead.
Torres del Paine National Park is one of the most famous parks in Patagonia.
There are many options for trekkers, albeit walking your choice of multi-day circuit or day trips.
It's recent accessibility has caused an explosion in tourism.
Do your research and plan ahead.
1. BEST TIME TO TRAVEL
Patagonia is the definition of temperamental. One moment hot and sunny, the next frigid and blustery. Going at the right time is of utmost importance.
Seasons in the Southern Hemisphere are opposite to those in the Northern Hemisphere. Therefore, the best time to travel is between October – May. October – December may see heavier rainfall due to the spring-like conditions whereas January – March (high season) offers the most consistent weather and warmer temperatures. Of course, better weather warrants more tourists. If you want to escape the crowds and experience a harsh Patagonia winter, TDP is open year round. Traveling in low season (May – September) will come with a lot of challenges and hiking/mountaineering experience is recommended.
The other great part of traveling during Patagonian summer is 18 hours of sunshine! We traveled in January and most days the sun rose around 4:30am and set just after 11pm. This offers more time for hiking and sightseeing.
Patagonia is the definition of temperamental. One moment hot and sunny, the next frigid and blustery. Going at the right time is of utmost importance.
Seasons in the Southern Hemisphere are opposite to those in the Northern Hemisphere. Therefore, the best time to travel is between October – May. October – December may see heavier rainfall due to the spring-like conditions whereas January – March (high season) offers the most consistent weather and warmer temperatures. Of course, better weather warrants more tourists. If you want to escape the crowds and experience a harsh Patagonia winter, TDP is open year round. Traveling in low season (May – September) will come with a lot of challenges and hiking/mountaineering experience is recommended.
The other great part of traveling during Patagonian summer is 18 hours of sunshine! We traveled in January and most days the sun rose around 4:30am and set just after 11pm. This offers more time for hiking and sightseeing.
2. O, Q or W?
Named for the shape of each circuit, TDP offers three trekking routes.
O - Circumvents the entire park, a full loop around the Cordillera del Paine and the parks more remote and less touristy backside. This route requires 7-10 days to complete (110km).
Q - Adds onto the 'O'. A 17 km section between the Serano Visitors Center and Refugio Paine Grande (where the catamaran drops most guests off to begin the W or O treks.) This trek is slightly more ambitious and offers a great panoramic approach to the park. (127km)
W - The most popular route, completed in 4-5 days (60km). Each circuit can be walked with gear, setting up camp as you go, or without gear. Relying on brick and mortar refugios and pre-set campsites for accommodation.
Named for the shape of each circuit, TDP offers three trekking routes.
O - Circumvents the entire park, a full loop around the Cordillera del Paine and the parks more remote and less touristy backside. This route requires 7-10 days to complete (110km).
Q - Adds onto the 'O'. A 17 km section between the Serano Visitors Center and Refugio Paine Grande (where the catamaran drops most guests off to begin the W or O treks.) This trek is slightly more ambitious and offers a great panoramic approach to the park. (127km)
W - The most popular route, completed in 4-5 days (60km). Each circuit can be walked with gear, setting up camp as you go, or without gear. Relying on brick and mortar refugios and pre-set campsites for accommodation.
Another option, rarely discussed in online forums. is the opportunity for DAY TRIPS. Yes, you can visit the park even if you don't have a reserved campsite. There are a handful of campsites sprinkled on the perimeter of the park that provide perfect jumping off points for the park's iconic hikes. Camping Pehoe is probably the most popular site. Reasonably priced with options to stay in tents, refugios or yurts. Buses run in the morning and evenings along the parks perimeter. If you align your schedules just right, you can score a lift to either the catamaran station, Pudeto, for entry into the park via Paine Grande Campground or to the Torres Centro, where you can begin the famous Las Torres hike.
** FYI - Camping Pehoe's website often lists all campsites as full. Ignore this. The campground has many sites and often calling them is the best way to secure a site. That, or simply show up. They'll find room :) |
3. RESERVE EARLY
Fortunately, and unfortunately, TDP is accessible to all travelers. Whether you want to stay in a swank hotel, budget campground, or something in between, TDP has it all. Frequent buses, catamarans, tour services and even horse rides have opened this mythical circuit to all. More tourists invariably means fewer availabilities for accommodation.
Unaware of the urgency of campsite reservations, my Dad and I began our site search only 6 weeks before the trip. Not nearly enough time. We snagged a few of the last camp sites available at both Paine Grande and Torres Centro. Everything else was pieced together in what we refer to as our, "Modified W Circuit". Do yourself a favor and book sites as soon as the booking engines open for the season. Usually in July.
4. TO CAMP OR NOT TO CAMP...THAT IS THE QUESTION.
There are three companies who provide campsites along the circuit. Vertice Patagonia and FantasticoSur are privately owned and require site fees. CONAF sites are government owned and FREE (if you book with ample time). Sounds easy, right? CONAF does not offer online reservations. How’s your Spanish? No ingles on these phone calls. Vertice Patagonia and FantasticSur, on the other hand, prefer online bookings. Their system is pretty straight forward but due to limited internet in Patagonia, reservations often go missing in cyber space. Also, if you book late like we did, you may find all your desired trip dates booked. We called each company begging for the necessary sites to link up our circuit. Only one, Vertice Patagonia, said they could make an exception. Again I say, do yourself favor and book early!
Camping Options:
- Camp Site Only - Bring all your gear. Pay for a piece of dirt and the use of their shower/toilet facilities.
- Pre-Set Campsite - Tents are already set up. Trekkers can choose to rent sleeping bags and sleeping mats, or carry their own. These prices are much higher than campsite only.
- Refugio - Private, semi-private and dorm style accommodations at both Vertice Patagonia and Fantastic Sur. Prices are extremely high but this option certainly provides the most comfort along the trail.
Hotel Options:
If you aren't into roughing it, TDP offers 2 luxury hotels. You heard me right. Luxury Hotels.
If you aren't into roughing it, TDP offers 2 luxury hotels. You heard me right. Luxury Hotels.
- Hotel Lago Grey is located on the shores of Lago Grey (Grey Lake) and provides easy access to the Grey Glacier catamaran. This catamaran embarks on daily voyages to the base of Glacier Grey. Guests can either enjoy a 3-4 hour cruise or disembark the catamaran near the glacier for ice hikes and kayaking trips.
- Las Torres Hotel is the other luxury option. Situated at the base of the iconic Las Torres Hike, this hotel sits on prime real estate. Accommodation prices may be higher than the Torres (The Towers) themselves, but at least there is an option for everyone.
5. EAST TO WEST or WEST TO EAST
The direction you choose to hike is mostly irrelevant. Either moving East from Refugio Grey or Paine Grande campground towards Las Torres Campground. Or the opposite, moving West from Las Torres to Paine Grande or Refugio Grey.
We wanted to arrive at the base of Las Torres on my Dad’s birthday. We also wanted this iconic hike to be the pinnacle of our journey. Some would choose to do this difficult hike first, while their legs are fresh. We referred to condition our legs over our first 3 days in the park before tackling this bear of a hike.
Not sure which direction to travel. Flip a coin.
The direction you choose to hike is mostly irrelevant. Either moving East from Refugio Grey or Paine Grande campground towards Las Torres Campground. Or the opposite, moving West from Las Torres to Paine Grande or Refugio Grey.
We wanted to arrive at the base of Las Torres on my Dad’s birthday. We also wanted this iconic hike to be the pinnacle of our journey. Some would choose to do this difficult hike first, while their legs are fresh. We referred to condition our legs over our first 3 days in the park before tackling this bear of a hike.
Not sure which direction to travel. Flip a coin.
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6. CLOTHING IS NOT OPTIONAL Do not, and I repeat, DO NOT, pack sub-standard gear just because the price is better. The weather in Patagonia can be unrelenting! Sheets of rain, freezing cold nights and torrents of wind that literally blow you off your feet. Layers are not only recommended, they’re crucial. Quick-dry tops and leggings are great for spontaneous rainfalls, as are cortex pants, rain jackets and backpack covers. Notice I specifically stated "gortex". "Water-resistent" clothing is no match for a Patagonian downpour. Bring the good stuff! Trails can be dry and rocky or sticky, muddy bogs. Invest in breathable, trekking socks along with a sturdy pair of hiking boots with ankle support. Be sure to break your boots in before making the trip south. Nothing worse than a foot full of blisters to begin the trip. Hiking poles are also extremely useful on those steep descents. See, “TDP Packlist” for a detailed list of all recommended gear. |
7. GEAR....RENT OR BRING FROM HOME?
We did a lot of research on this before the trip. Renting gear at each place we traveled to would certainly cut down on weight between our treks. But you must ask yourself, what condition is the gear in, how heavy is it and of course, how much. Most gear rental services charge a daily rate for everything from tents to sleeping mats, trekking poles to boots, camp stoves to rain jackets. You could seriously arrive from your home country with nothing more than the clothes on your back and find everything you need to complete TDP. Gear can be rented at each campground in TDP or all at once, in the staging town of Puerto Natales. Many hostels rent decent gear but the day rate per item adds up quickly. While in Puerto Natales, be sure to stock up on provisions. Trust me, you don't need to bring every granola bar known to man or freeze-dried REI specialty to survive TDP. Simply hit a local grocery store and buy what you need. |
8. GUIDE OR NO GUIDE
While in Puerto Natales, you'll see guide services advertised. And while I don't necessarily discount their service, I simply do not see the need. The paths in TDP are very well marked. I'm sure guides provide wonderful geological and geographical information about the park but so does my guide book. Trust me, the path is impossible to lose.
While in Puerto Natales, you'll see guide services advertised. And while I don't necessarily discount their service, I simply do not see the need. The paths in TDP are very well marked. I'm sure guides provide wonderful geological and geographical information about the park but so does my guide book. Trust me, the path is impossible to lose.
9. PRICES
TDP is not as cheap as you may think. $30 one-way catamaran rides and a $30 national park entry fee are a few of the upfront fee's for many trekkers. Campsites are reasonable, if you bring gear, but refugios can cost $80-$150/night. Pre-Set Campsites around $50/night. If you want to purchase a hot meal at the refugio, expect another $15-20. And of course, if your dying for a chocolate bar or can of coke, they'll come at a premium.
** FYI - There are no ATM's in the park (thankfully) so bring plenty of cash. CLP's are preferred but some establishments will accept USD.
TDP is not as cheap as you may think. $30 one-way catamaran rides and a $30 national park entry fee are a few of the upfront fee's for many trekkers. Campsites are reasonable, if you bring gear, but refugios can cost $80-$150/night. Pre-Set Campsites around $50/night. If you want to purchase a hot meal at the refugio, expect another $15-20. And of course, if your dying for a chocolate bar or can of coke, they'll come at a premium.
** FYI - There are no ATM's in the park (thankfully) so bring plenty of cash. CLP's are preferred but some establishments will accept USD.
10. TRAVEL TIME
Traveling to ‘el fin de mundo’ (the end of the world) takes time…a lot of time. For us, 4 separate plane rides, 1 night on the floor of Santiago International airport and 1 3-hour bus ride to reach Puerto Natales. 44 hours of transit. Don’t expect to do this trip in a week. Give yourself ample time and enjoy the journey.
Traveling to ‘el fin de mundo’ (the end of the world) takes time…a lot of time. For us, 4 separate plane rides, 1 night on the floor of Santiago International airport and 1 3-hour bus ride to reach Puerto Natales. 44 hours of transit. Don’t expect to do this trip in a week. Give yourself ample time and enjoy the journey.