Off the Beaten Path - Lamu Island, Kenya
From the moment I opened my crisp new East Africa Lonely Planet and laid eager eyes on the section entitled, “Lamu”, my number one travel destination was sealed. A UNESCO World Heritage Site, Lamu Town (located on Lamu Island - northern coast of Kenya) is the oldest and best-preserved example of Swahili culture in all of Africa. A place where the Arab, Persian and European worlds of old mix with traditional Bantu people to create a culture, language and lifestyle all their own.
Getting there, however, can be a bit difficult.
7 hours north of Mombasa, Kenya’s coastal hub, shabby public buses and crowded matatus provide the only form of transportation to the nearest island departure point, the town of Mokowe. From here, public ferries await to finish the island transfer, a quick 30-minute journey costing a whopping, $1.25. (Of course, if money is no object and time is NOT on your side, hopper flights can be arranged from Mombasa to Manda Island, opposite Lamu Island, for 150-200 USD).
“All aboard!” Hastily climbing into the boats shallow belly myself and dozens of other eager passengers secured our prime piece of 1X1 wooden real estate. Within minutes, the boat swelled to capacity but the captain only exclaimed, "FULL", when the boats splintered wooden rail tottered inches above the watery plane.
Getting there, however, can be a bit difficult.
7 hours north of Mombasa, Kenya’s coastal hub, shabby public buses and crowded matatus provide the only form of transportation to the nearest island departure point, the town of Mokowe. From here, public ferries await to finish the island transfer, a quick 30-minute journey costing a whopping, $1.25. (Of course, if money is no object and time is NOT on your side, hopper flights can be arranged from Mombasa to Manda Island, opposite Lamu Island, for 150-200 USD).
“All aboard!” Hastily climbing into the boats shallow belly myself and dozens of other eager passengers secured our prime piece of 1X1 wooden real estate. Within minutes, the boat swelled to capacity but the captain only exclaimed, "FULL", when the boats splintered wooden rail tottered inches above the watery plane.
Moving like an overloaded ass, we slowly sputtered towards the adjacent landmass - the backside of Lamu Island. Following the curve of the mangrove-laden shores, my eyes delighted in the local fisherman performing their evening rituals. First packing their weather worn dhow boats with bait, line and crew before raising their single sail onto a lone mast. Snapping to life, their wheaten canvas sails bloated against the stout breeze, while the late afternoon sun silhouetted their unforgettable outlines against a reddening horizon.
Cresting the island apex, we made a 90-degree turn into the placid sound separating Lamu Island from its sister, Manda Island. An affluent tourist dream, Manda greeted my gaze with opulent mansions, large plots of well-manicured land, and white sand for miles but it was Lamu Island that stole this backpackers heart.
Cresting the island apex, we made a 90-degree turn into the placid sound separating Lamu Island from its sister, Manda Island. An affluent tourist dream, Manda greeted my gaze with opulent mansions, large plots of well-manicured land, and white sand for miles but it was Lamu Island that stole this backpackers heart.
The gleaming white buildings and striking port first caught my eye but the mazelike streets, bleached mosques and arched verandas captured my intrigue. Once the epicenter for East African trade, the days of old are gone but the traditions remain - right down to the donkeys providing the only form of island transportation (no vehicles on Lamu).
Lining the port, dozens of pushy touts did their best to capture my attention – and my dollars - but it was the dozens of shiny eyes staring at me from behind 1 X 3 inch slats that truly peaked my interest. Just as curious about me, as I was them, I suddenly felt naked against the Muslim womens arbitrating stares. Reaching for my scarf, I covered my bare shoulders and tugged against my questionably short skirt, joking to myself, “You’re not in Kansas anymore.” |
Just beyond the awkward stares stood Janik, a jovial German chap befriended in Mombasa. Waving wildly and beckoning me to his side, Janik quickly explained the accommodation situation, offering a private room in a private house with 9 other eager travelers. The Real World Lamu, I thought, and for a price of 7 dollars a night, how could I resist?
More then just your basic, back road dig, it was an Arabian-style mansion! 4 floors of rounded marble, Moroccan archways, hundreds of Persian pillows, an indoor soaking pool and the crown jewel, a rooftop terrace. Doubling as a bedroom for three and living area for all, walls were conveniently left out of the design. Instead, a handful of shiny columns held up an intricate, yet humble, thatched roof. Oversized airy cotton drapes softened the space and 360-degree views of Lamu completing the elevated masterpiece.
More then just your basic, back road dig, it was an Arabian-style mansion! 4 floors of rounded marble, Moroccan archways, hundreds of Persian pillows, an indoor soaking pool and the crown jewel, a rooftop terrace. Doubling as a bedroom for three and living area for all, walls were conveniently left out of the design. Instead, a handful of shiny columns held up an intricate, yet humble, thatched roof. Oversized airy cotton drapes softened the space and 360-degree views of Lamu completing the elevated masterpiece.
Too excited to relax I left the lush terrace, and my newly acquired roommates, for the mazelike streets of Lamu. No wider then 2 meters across with 3 story buildings rising on all sides, it’s impossible not to feel like a mouse in a maze - except a big piece of cheddar is not your goal, finding your hotel (after 4 previous attempts) is! Not to mention, emerging with a clean sandal. Donkey land mines are everywhere and the ancient plumbing system, an above ground, open-faced, interlacing flow way, tends to attract unsuspecting feet.
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Along with architecture, the people of Lamu left me humbly amazed. Children danced to traditional Arab music, old men played cards and talked politics, and women floated gracefully through the alleyways quiet as ghosts in the night. I was reminded with each passerby of the majority Muslim population. Men in floor length starch white garments, known as “thobe”, with stiff embroidered oval hats sitting properly atop their bearded heads and women hiding beneath full-coverage, midnight black, abayas.
There are, of course, a handful of other religions, like Christianity, but you won’t find a church on the main street, or any street for that matter. People can believe what they want but you would be hard pressed to find a Christian preaching God amidst of sea Muslim.
There are, of course, a handful of other religions, like Christianity, but you won’t find a church on the main street, or any street for that matter. People can believe what they want but you would be hard pressed to find a Christian preaching God amidst of sea Muslim.
Emerging from the claustrophobic streets and into the salty sea breezes of the harbor, I all but forgot about the tradition I just witnessed as a group of rastas approached - laid back, slow going and totally baked!! Bob Marley T-shirts, long dreads and endless peace and love preaching, rastas are the refreshing liberals amidst a town of conservatives. Most touts share these rasta traditions and instead of approaching tourists with a full on, hard sale, they approach with a relaxed attitude. If you decline their activity or the offer to visit their shop, they usually respond with a cordial, “Hakuna Matata” (no worries) and go back to their starry eyed merriment.
After only a day, Lamu lived up to everything I heard and read about, an enthusiasm that only grew with each passing day. |
Starting every morning at 5 am, Islamic prayer calls roused me from slumber but the hundreds of disgruntled donkeys commencing their own wake up call, “Hee Haw…Hee Haw”, provided the real alarm clock. Dressing more moderate then usual, I wore long skirts and used scarfs to cover my shoulders - a personal choice, not a mandatory dress code. (Lamu locals have accepted the Western tourists, “semi-clad”, dressing styles but I still prefer respect, then disrespect).
Daily activities remained relatively simple.
1. Get blissfully lost in the streets.
2. Pay a visit to the golden sands of the nearby Shela Beach
3. Enjoy a chocolate banana smoothie at the harbor.
4. Fall asleep on the terrace, below a blanket of falling stars.
As for specific activities, I can only recommend one and disapprove another.
Approaching us with a calm, almost grandfather-like demeanor, Ali Baba invited myself, and 9 other roommates to dinner - a customary dinner with his family for the small price of 6 USD each. Seemed genuine enough although the threat of a tourist trap never lingered far from our minds.
Daily activities remained relatively simple.
1. Get blissfully lost in the streets.
2. Pay a visit to the golden sands of the nearby Shela Beach
3. Enjoy a chocolate banana smoothie at the harbor.
4. Fall asleep on the terrace, below a blanket of falling stars.
As for specific activities, I can only recommend one and disapprove another.
Approaching us with a calm, almost grandfather-like demeanor, Ali Baba invited myself, and 9 other roommates to dinner - a customary dinner with his family for the small price of 6 USD each. Seemed genuine enough although the threat of a tourist trap never lingered far from our minds.
Picking us up promptly at 6 pm, Ali Baba ushered us through the narrow streets to his house, a windowless sauna with only a handful of rooms and one large kitchen table. He began the evening by first speaking about himself. His fame and fortune amongst tourists because of his musical talent. His instrument of choice, a 1990 throwback keyboard piano. You know, the one with phony piano sounds and pre-made beat mixes. Yeah, he’s famous alright? The food was average at best, and the portions extremely limited. 1 chapati, 1 fish, 1 fried appetizer thing per person, no more! And when it came to the “traditional dancing” portion of the evening, Ali Baba and his family of 10 (6 kids, with 3 different wives) all came out of the wood work to clap, sing and dance. The tourist trap was set and we bit but at least 6 dollars for a comedy show wasn’t bad.
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The other tourist activity partaken in receives a big Thumbs Up! A dhow snorkeling trip. My roomies and I paid all of 10 USD each for a full-days excursion to a reef and remote island. Our captains were, go figure, rastafarians and high as kites for our 9am arrival. They laughed and conversed through glazed eyes as they slowly, yet methodically, raised the sail. Gliding over the miniscule wake, it was a slow, yet beautiful trip to the reef and our snorkeling expectations were more then exceeded. Crystalline waters, colorful coraland loads of small fish (as the big one’s have already been snagged by the hundreds of nearby fisherman). My only qualm with the reef, were the rastas bumping into. Loosing track of their anchor, the boat drifted towards the shallow outgrowth and became hopelessly lodged. Ripping the coral out to extricate the boat was a painful sight for a sea lover like myself. Idiots!
Returning to deeper seas, we sailed towards a welcoming island oasis. Arriving at low tide, we traipsed over what felt like miles of hot sand before reaching the islands interior and with it, coveted shade. Our rastas went to work cooking, and 1 ½ hours later (again, rasta time) we enjoyed a meal of fish curry, rice and fresh fruit. Sailing back to Lamu with my roomies and rasta in toe, I relished my 4 glorious days on this unique archipelago. Lamu has stole my heart and my tourist kudos - a place like none other that must be experienced. |