Bali
Five years ago, I visited Indonesia's tourist mecca, Bali. Beaches and a sandal/sarong existence could easily sum up my time there. This trip to Indonesia, however, has opened my eyes to the extreme religious and lifestyle diversity alive under one flag. I no longer see Bali as Indonesia, I see Bali as an Indonesian anomaly. Embracing western tourism in a way that no other Indonesian island has achieved, Bali harmonizes indulgent, often risque, western ways with traditional, conservative practices.
An amalgamation of Hindu and Buddhist beliefs, tied together with the pre-existing beliefs of the islands indigenous people’s, Balinese practice a form of Hinduism as different to Indonesia’s predominantly Muslim following as Bali is to Indonesia’s 17,000 other islands.
Balinese Hindu’s do not believe in Allah, the Quran, or in heaven, they believe in many god’s, good luck (karma) and reincarnation. The most important forms of devotion are daily offerings which appease the god’s and prevent ‘bad luck’ from falling on a household. |
Offerings are not ornate gestures, instead they are simple and consistent. Slender, pliable palm leaves are folded into CD-sized, biodegradable boxes and filled with a miscellany of plants, flowers and edibles. A small stick of incense (about the size of a 4th of July punk) is then lit in the center, deeming the offering ready for presentation to the god’s.
Alms can be placed in a variety of locations. Nooks dug out of cement walls or makeshift, palm mail boxes are common recipients, but streets and beaches serve the same purpose. Sure, offerings placed near the sea will be washed away and those left in the streets will be trampled, but the gifts have already served their purpose, to appease the god’s, and what happens after is up to nature - or, the herds of heedless tourists too busy looking ahead, to notice the harmless religious land mines they are crushing below.
Alms can be placed in a variety of locations. Nooks dug out of cement walls or makeshift, palm mail boxes are common recipients, but streets and beaches serve the same purpose. Sure, offerings placed near the sea will be washed away and those left in the streets will be trampled, but the gifts have already served their purpose, to appease the god’s, and what happens after is up to nature - or, the herds of heedless tourists too busy looking ahead, to notice the harmless religious land mines they are crushing below.
What I like to call, ‘karmatic living’, is the other piece of Balinese Hindu. If you live destructively, the gods will plague you with bad luck. If, however, you live honestly, you will be rewarded with good luck. Simply put, every action made in this life determines what you are reincarnated as in the next. For this reason, honesty is engrained in the people. Sure, vendors will try to squeeze as much money out of you as possible, but on the grounds of theft or crime, they appear as saints on the world-wide scale.
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To see first hand how the devout Balinese Hindu’s co-exist with the lack of religion fostered by holiday goers, go no further then the famous, Kuta Beach.
A surfer’s paradise, shopper’s dream and expats ultimate goal, Kuta Beach is to Aussie’s what Cancun is to Americans. A holiday Paradise.
What makes Kuta Beach so special…just think miles of pristine white sand, bath water warm waters, and set after set of perfect surf!
Regarded as one of the best surf beaches in the world, millions of surfers, from beginner to pro, flock here every year to partake in the magic swell. An impressive classification which involuntarily earned it another; one of the most dangerous beaches in the world. No, not because of ripping currents or ravenous wildlife, but because of the most dangerous inhabitants of all, amateur surfers.
A surfer’s paradise, shopper’s dream and expats ultimate goal, Kuta Beach is to Aussie’s what Cancun is to Americans. A holiday Paradise.
What makes Kuta Beach so special…just think miles of pristine white sand, bath water warm waters, and set after set of perfect surf!
Regarded as one of the best surf beaches in the world, millions of surfers, from beginner to pro, flock here every year to partake in the magic swell. An impressive classification which involuntarily earned it another; one of the most dangerous beaches in the world. No, not because of ripping currents or ravenous wildlife, but because of the most dangerous inhabitants of all, amateur surfers.
"Enter at your own Risk", should be sign posted along the beach and a waiver signed before entry. A waiver not to cover yourself, mind you, but to cover the damage your beginners 9-foot foam board could inflict on others. A helmet, heck even a mouth guard, are advisable.
In the span of 20 feet, 10 boards float abreast one another. Catching a wave for a few seconds before barreling into another surfer is hardly worth the effort. To truly enjoy the waves of Bali, jump on a surfboard equipped motorbike and head either up or down the coast, any direction but Kuta Beach. |
The shopping in and around Kuta, well, let's just say, "less is more". At first glance, any woman's eyes would light up. Shop after shop explode with handbags, bright jewelry and flowey fabrics. Upon closer examination, however, this shopping nirvana is knocked back to reality. "Same, Same, But Different". Each shop offers virtually the same merchandise but still try and convince buyers that their products are better quality, and of course, sold for a better price then the competition.
To shop in Kuta, patience is in demand and resolve must be in surplus. The shop owner’s will refer to you as ‘friend’, ‘boss’, or ‘darling’, but don’t be fooled. They’re out for blood. Here’s a brief crash course in Balinese shopping.
To shop in Kuta, patience is in demand and resolve must be in surplus. The shop owner’s will refer to you as ‘friend’, ‘boss’, or ‘darling’, but don’t be fooled. They’re out for blood. Here’s a brief crash course in Balinese shopping.
First, their “starting price” will always be at least 80% higher then what they bought, or made, the merchandise for. For example, a dress with a start price of 250,000 Rupiah (about 25 USD) is worth no more then 50,000 (5 USD), the exact price you should start with when commencing the bargaining game. Sure, the vendor will laugh and give you a look of utter disgust but under the façade they know you are a formidable opponent.
They want to throw you off, make you believe you're price is unreasonably low, but take two steps towards the next shop, and they will easily drop the price by half. |
Now it’s your turn to act disgusted. You are appalled they would still try and charge you, a professional shopper, such an exorbadant rate. Politely respond, “No thank you”, and switch your interest to another object in the stall. Perusing the other objects will give the vendor time to re-evaluate their price scheme and offer yet another counter offer. This is where the real bargaining begins. As they lower their price by 20,000 you raise your price by 5,000. A middle ground will eventually be reached but be sure the final sale price is at least 65-75% cheaper then the beginning quote.
This is not soft pitch softball my friends, this is hard ball and you're playing with the big boys and girls of 3rd world shopping! Shop around, learn the lowest price, and maintain resiliance. You might only save 10,000 Rupiah (1.00) but it is the principle that counts.
This is not soft pitch softball my friends, this is hard ball and you're playing with the big boys and girls of 3rd world shopping! Shop around, learn the lowest price, and maintain resiliance. You might only save 10,000 Rupiah (1.00) but it is the principle that counts.
Finally, when in Kuta expect expats. Foreign investors have swept into this little paradise, buying up and capitalizing on every inch of beach front property. For those travelers with a taste for luxury, all-inclusive resorts run down part of the beach, while central Kuta Beach is home to the cheap hotels and night clubs.
About the only characteristic relating Bali to the thousands of other Indonesian islands, is the cost of living. Even in tourist mecca Kuta, frugal backpackers can get away with 20 bucks/day. 8-10 dollars/night buys a basic, no frills room, complete with oscillating fan, bucket flush toilet, and “free banana pancake while the other half of the budget covers a hearty lunch, dinner and even a few beers (beers being the most expensive portion). |
Of course, there is how the “other half” live. 25 dollars/night will get you air-con, pool, flushing toilets and a balcony. Or even still, 100/night, how the “other, other half” live, will pamper you with every all-inclusive amenity available. But where’s the adventure in that?
For me, compromise is always the best solution. Consistently cheap rooms allow for fuller food allowances and more liquid drink budgets. My views of Indonesia as a whole have changed tremendously this trip, but my view of Bali itself remains the same. A surfer’s paradise, shopper’s dream and expats ultimate goal.© |