"The Gem of Guatemala" - Semuc Champey
Situated deep in the jungles of Guatemala, Semuc Champey may not be on your initial travel itinerary but ask any backpacker their favorite place in Guatemala and I can almost guarantee they will say SEMUC!
When catching a bus to Semuc Champey, there are a few things you should know. First, whatever duration your trip is claimed to be, double it. Second, the road is extremely windy and if your tummy is prone to go funny, be sure to pack Dramamine. And finally, when asked to stay in Semuc Chempey itself or the nearby village of Lanquin, I recommend Lanquin for one main reason, Zephyr Hostel.
Perched on a high hill and silhouetted against the flawless blue sky, the thatched roof, tree house inspired lodge was a site for soar eyes…and bums...after the 8-hour journey from Antigua. Pre-booking a loft bed in one of the large dormitories, we had to climb up two sets of wooden ladders to reach our “room” - a small wooden platform complete with double mattress, thatched A-frame walls and one hell of a view! Zephyr also offers a very liberating shower experience. Veiled by a curtain on one side, but completely exposed to the adjacent valley on the other, this open-air, “hello world I’m naked”, set up is unforgettable. |
Other Zephyr amenities include a full-service restaurant serving up loads of western favorites, daily happy hours and great music that bumps from morning to night. The fun is inescapable but the bill is not. Placed on a tab system from day 1 those overpriced rounds of drinks and late night pizzas can add up to one hefty bill. I recommend venturing into Lanquin for MUCH cheaper easts and drinks.
A final Zephyr service includes tours to the famed Semuc Champey. Sure, they’ll run slightly higher then in Lanquin but they offer the best tour around! |
Waking bright and early for what promised to be the crown jewel of our trip, myself and 20 other eager travelers filed into an awaiting truck bed. Packed in like cattle, standing was our only option. Utilizing an overhead metal bar for support, our bodies helplessly bashed into one another for the painfully bumpy 45-minute drive into the National Park.
First stop, the Candle Caves. Included in the full-day tour, we presumed the “cave adventure” to be a paltry add on. Something to increase the overall tour time and extract more money from tourists. Boy were we wrong! No helmets, wetsuits, or flashlights…just bare skin, bare feet and candles! Or, in my case, tennis shoes - “more grip, better trip”. So while other travelers slipped and slided toward the cave, Clay and I bounded over slick rocks and slimy branches, affirmation of our shoe choice within the first 10-seconds.
First stop, the Candle Caves. Included in the full-day tour, we presumed the “cave adventure” to be a paltry add on. Something to increase the overall tour time and extract more money from tourists. Boy were we wrong! No helmets, wetsuits, or flashlights…just bare skin, bare feet and candles! Or, in my case, tennis shoes - “more grip, better trip”. So while other travelers slipped and slided toward the cave, Clay and I bounded over slick rocks and slimy branches, affirmation of our shoe choice within the first 10-seconds.
Once everyone assembled around the cave mouth our guide reached for a colorful flower bud and broke it open. Running his thumb through the bright orange innards, he smeared tribal paint on each of our faces. Claimed to ward off evil spirits in the cave, the paints real purpose was evident, humor! Drawing a variety of different symbols on foreheads and cheeks it was all fun and games until I got, “stached”. A mustache? Seriously dude? Needless to say, I provided comedy relief for everyone and became the butt of every dirty joke.
Content with his “artwork” our guide lit a handful of thick-wick candles and passed them round. “Vamanos Amigos!” Shuffling through a few feet of water and loose screy, we moved deeper into the cave, our candles providing enough light to see our immediate surrounds, but hardly sufficient to see beyond. Cautiously moving forward, the cool water soon began to rise and our guide instructed us to, “swim”.
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The hike was a heart pumping, 20-minute uphill slog but the reward was an unparalleled view below. Spreading out along the valley floor below, the layered masterpiece of limestone was jaw dropping! Connected by rushing waterfalls and filled in with crystalline pools, the afternoon sun sparkled the water to life, casting magical hues of emerald and sapphire for our viewing delight.
From this insanely beautiful vantage point, we enjoyed our jamon y queso sammies - satisfying our appetite for sustenance but increasing our appetite for adventure. Practically racing down the steep embankment, the thick forest opened onto a large flat limestone surface where the raging river disappearing underneath. It is this river that created Semuc Champey (translated in Mayan to mean, “where water disappears”). When water levels rise, the river flows overtop, replenishing the pools, but as water levels drop the river is forced under. Rushing over boulders and powering through the narrow cavern, the tumultuous waters disappear into the dark cave, not to emerge until 350 meters later. Thank goodness water levels were low. A natural marvel with mystical persona,
Semuc Champey is truly the gem of Guatemala! Buen Viaje!! |
Carefully maneuvering over the slippery limestone, we learned the best way to travel between pools was swim. Wading from one side to the next, the end of every pool brought the beginning of another. Some chose to cannonball or dive into the next swimming holes while others chose the natural waterfall slides. Fun at first, the bumpy rocks, loose screy and random foliage growing over the waterfalls did nothing for a woman’s backside…or her bikini bottoms. OUCH!
Along with slides and jumps, a handful of pools contained hidden caverns and swim throughs. Discovering them, however, required a bit of courage. Holding my breath and wishing for the best, I swam under the limestone ledge. Not even a few seconds later I surfaced in a small, hidden cave. Treading water literally 2-feet away from the swimmers on the outside, they had no clue I was so close (yet so far). Swimming out of the cave was more frightening then entering. Trusting that if I swam towards the light for 3 seconds, I would surface outside. Well, one way to find out. SWIM FOR THE LIGHT! |