MURCHISON FALLS NATIONAL PARK - UGANDA
When it comes to tourism, I learned years ago never trust a website! They all say book ahead and most of the time require a pre-payment but there is almost always “one more” space for paying clients (especially in developing countries).
Trip Advisor has taken great strides in sanctioning tours and offering honest opinions but still, the best recommendation is straight from the source. The participating tourists. Ask which companies they booked with - the good, the bad and the ugly – and learn average prices along with bargaining leeway. My most recent tour in Uganda, came about no different. A 3-day safari to Murchison Falls National Park. Many companies offer a similar trip but after consulting a half-dozen pleased clients I bit the financial bullet and booked with Red Chili Hideaway!! |
Considered the cheapest option around, Red Chili MF Safaris span 3 days and include 2 game drive, 2 waterfall hikes and 1 Nile boat ride to the base of Murchison Falls. A very enticing agenda, which also included 2 nights “free” accommodation in the charming safari tents along with transportation to and from Kampala (a long, dusty 5 hour trip north).
280 USD later, we were off. My crew; an Irish father and Son, 2 Dutch, 2 Germans and of course, Ronald, our fearless leader! Ronald could be described simply as the, “nicest man in Uganda”. Soft spoken, conservative, and genuine his every action reflected our happiness. Expressing thanks for his care and concern oh, about every 2.5 seconds, Ronald only blushed and said it was his pleasure.
5 sweltering hours later, we arrived at the park entrance. The welcoming crew comprised of a park ranger, automatic rifle and something far more ominous…swarms of Tsetse Flies. These tiny pests do more then just irritate, buzzing about your head and smacking into your limbs, they ATTACK! Similar to a quick searing, cigarette burn the pain is instantaneous with a prolonged aftermath. Practically rubbing my skin raw, nothing could appease their mosquito-style lumps. One bite, two bite, three bite, four. AHHHH!!!! |
Our only refuge was in the hands of Ronald, the steering wheel. “Drive faster Ronald!” Speeding down the bumpy red clay roads, every time we neared a pool of standing water, Ronald politiely asked for us to close the windows. Literally, the moment we shut the window, swarms of the Tsetse Tribe would crash into the clear panes. Like watching a horror movie unfold, I was sure our van would break down in the middle of one of these death pools and the masses descend from the skies for a mzungu feast. Where was Bruce Willis when we needed him? Bug spray was our only hope…or was it? Not even my deep woods, DEET spray could ward them off! Hell, not even clothes could prevent the bites! This was war. Swat! Swat! Take that you little monster! Don’t mess with Raging Reggie!!
Surviving our first (of many) Tsetse onslaughts, I can only offer two pieces of advice. Avoid dark clothing, as they tend to attack dark colored things (or people, like poor Ronald) first, and KEEP MOVING!!
Aside from our not so welcome, welcoming committee, the park is home to loads of more favorable wildlife. Big honker elephants, stoic giraffes, unenthusiastic water buffalo, petite African cob (antelope), shaggy lions, Colgate-grin crocodiles and my favorite, large and in charge, Hippos! I had never seen a hippo in the wild until this trip and my excitement was palpable. |
Effortlessly ruling the Nile, they recognize no human or animal would dare mess with them! Crocodiles for fear of being squashed in the battle and humans for fear of their bone-crunching, merciless bite!
Patiently waiting for one to fully emerge from the watery grey curtain proved to be an excruciatingly long process. A few curious eyes and oversized nostrils were usually the only visible clues of what lie below. Abandoning my hope of seeing one out of the water, I instead enjoyed the moments when half a backside would float above the wet plane or when an immense hippo yawn would draw, “oohs” and “ahhs”, from our enthusiastic gallery.
Another animal favorite was the “disabled” king of the jungle. I refer to him as Tripod. This poor male lion was caught in a poachers trap a few years prior and if not for a team of devoted rangers and vet’s would have died. Safely amputating the leg, the lion has made a full recovery and now hobbles through the grasslands on 3 legs in search of prey. With his hunting abilities severely limiters, rangers were unsure of his survival rate but his loyal pride (a brother in particular) came to his aid. The pride now hunts for Tripod, sharing their coveted kill - An action rarely ever seen in the wild.
Tripod is an uncommon miracle story. Most other poacher victims do not survive. Poached for skins, horns and paws the animals unlikely saving grace has been the dawn of tourism. Tourism has brought a huge influx of money to the national park and with it, the ability to protect larger areas of the park. A task that may seem small, until you consider the size of the park. 3,800 sq. km.
Patiently waiting for one to fully emerge from the watery grey curtain proved to be an excruciatingly long process. A few curious eyes and oversized nostrils were usually the only visible clues of what lie below. Abandoning my hope of seeing one out of the water, I instead enjoyed the moments when half a backside would float above the wet plane or when an immense hippo yawn would draw, “oohs” and “ahhs”, from our enthusiastic gallery.
Another animal favorite was the “disabled” king of the jungle. I refer to him as Tripod. This poor male lion was caught in a poachers trap a few years prior and if not for a team of devoted rangers and vet’s would have died. Safely amputating the leg, the lion has made a full recovery and now hobbles through the grasslands on 3 legs in search of prey. With his hunting abilities severely limiters, rangers were unsure of his survival rate but his loyal pride (a brother in particular) came to his aid. The pride now hunts for Tripod, sharing their coveted kill - An action rarely ever seen in the wild.
Tripod is an uncommon miracle story. Most other poacher victims do not survive. Poached for skins, horns and paws the animals unlikely saving grace has been the dawn of tourism. Tourism has brought a huge influx of money to the national park and with it, the ability to protect larger areas of the park. A task that may seem small, until you consider the size of the park. 3,800 sq. km.
Racing into the distance, auburn and chestnut grasslands extend for miles on end with verdant jungle and swamplands picking up where they left off. Enjoying the view initially from our open roof safari vehicle, I still couldn’t obtain an unobstructed view of the beauty before me. Leaving the relative safety of the vehicles innards, I climbed out the open roof and positioned myself on the small metal grate just over the vans trunk. This meant a 360-degree viewing platform with no other tourist appendages in my way. Sure, I had to sacrifice comfort - and my tailbone - but the experience was invigorating!
Another incredible portion of the safari included, as the park name would suggest, waterfalls! Murchison Falls is the point where Lake Victoria’s Nile spills over into Lake Albert. What once flowed through a 50-meter wide river bed, now pumped through a narrow, 6-meter gap! Standing only a few meters from this point, the power and fury of the Nile was incomprehensible!
We also had the opportunity to see Murchison Falls from the base. Enjoying a 3-hour river cruise up the Nile, we spotted loads of birdlife, water buffaloes and of course my pudgy and plump pals, the Hippos. But similar to the day before, the hippos remained relatively submerged, bathing in the cool Nile’s embrace, and instead the crocodiles came out to play! Resembling more of a dinosaur then a common reptile, these ancient beasts watched us from behind filmy eyes. Unblinking, unmoving, completely stoic, they are the epitome of biological adaption and probably one of the most keen and successful hunters of any. “Keep your arms and legs inside the vehicle folks!”
Another incredible portion of the safari included, as the park name would suggest, waterfalls! Murchison Falls is the point where Lake Victoria’s Nile spills over into Lake Albert. What once flowed through a 50-meter wide river bed, now pumped through a narrow, 6-meter gap! Standing only a few meters from this point, the power and fury of the Nile was incomprehensible!
We also had the opportunity to see Murchison Falls from the base. Enjoying a 3-hour river cruise up the Nile, we spotted loads of birdlife, water buffaloes and of course my pudgy and plump pals, the Hippos. But similar to the day before, the hippos remained relatively submerged, bathing in the cool Nile’s embrace, and instead the crocodiles came out to play! Resembling more of a dinosaur then a common reptile, these ancient beasts watched us from behind filmy eyes. Unblinking, unmoving, completely stoic, they are the epitome of biological adaption and probably one of the most keen and successful hunters of any. “Keep your arms and legs inside the vehicle folks!”
Attempting to cool down their body temperatures, we enjoyed a smiley spectacle - Three big, beautiful grins greeted us on a nearby bank. Lying in the shade of pine-like tree, their mouths were left fully ajar, each razor sharp tooth glistening in the late afternoon sun. Trying to position ourselves closer, our pontoon slowly hummed closer…closer… SPLASH! Guess they were camera shy.
Our guide informed us crocs love to hang out at the base of the falls for what I like to call, “Fast Food.” Fish, or other animals, that may have accidently come over the falls. Landing in dismembered pieces, means an easily catchable and digestible meal for crocs.
Our guide informed us crocs love to hang out at the base of the falls for what I like to call, “Fast Food.” Fish, or other animals, that may have accidently come over the falls. Landing in dismembered pieces, means an easily catchable and digestible meal for crocs.
Nearing the falls, our aging engine wined against the Niles force and the small crew did their best to moor us to large, centralized boulder. Still a good 200-meters away from the Falls, I imagined a closer experience, but that’s probably what Gilligan said too. If we went any further, we may not come out!
Snapping our quintessential “Falls Photo”, we returned for our last night at the Red Chili Camp. The campsite provided double person safari tents for sleeping, along with cold, yet refreshing, showers. The restaurant turned out amazing meals and the staff was extremely sociable and fun-loving. “C’mon madam, have some tequila!” Sorry boys. |
Providing a false sense of security, we bounded around camp with not even a second thought as to our location. A 100-meters from the river bank and in the middle of Big Game, wildlife park. Wildlife has been known to cruise through the camps at night, the scariest of all…HIPPOS! If they catch a wiff of luxurious chocolates, crisps, or a half eaten granola bar, nothing will stop their hearty advance. They can run up to 40km’s hour with bull doze strength force so leave those late-night biscuits in the restaurant strong hold!
My favorite campsite resident was Pumba! Warthogs like to peruse the camp, mowing the lawn with their hilarious eating habits. Bending their front legs they lower themselves to their knees and scuttle along the grass to reach even the smallest blades of grass. Red Chili removed the hassle of finding my own safari transportation and guide, paying daily park fee’s, organizing campsites, and simply maneuvering around that gigantic park! Yes, it did place an unexpected dent in my already stretched safari budget, but Murchison Falls is worth every Shilling! And we can't end a safari without my a stupid animal joke: How can you tell the difference between a male and a female giraffe? The male is hornier! He has three horns on his head, not two! Guess humans and animals aren’t all that different ;) |