Hola Peru
I have arrived...South America! First order of business, Learn Espanol! The language barrier came as quite a shock, as my high school level Spanish has proved below that of a 2 year old here. Good thing hand gestures and body language are universal. The sign for bathroom seems to be the same in every language.After flying into Lima, Peru a few weeks ago, my first impressions of South Am have been wonderful! Well, with one exception... the traffic. Ah, the joys of traveling through countries where SUV's are nothing more then a dream, and the most luxurious means of transport come in the form of miniature taxi cabs complete with carpeted dash and the quintessential religious icon hanging from the rear view mirror. Chaos on wheels! With a population of 8 million, half living well below the poverty line, Lima could easily be summed up by honking, bad drivers, honking brought on by bad drivers, and shear madness! After only 7 hours, I hopped the next bus south. |
Heading south from Lima, the bus ride provided much more then just a means of getting from A to B, it provided a Peruvian education. I always imagined the coast to be lush and vegetated, but boy was I wrong. Sand dunes taller then most buildings in Lima towered over one side of the highway, while the other fell off into the Pacific. Shantytowns turned ghost towns lined the highway, showcasing hundreds of identical shacks constructed of nothing more then stone and mud, separated equally by tiny plots of land.
In an attempt to jump start the Peruvian economy, the government granted these mini-estates to the poor. The idea was good in theory, but instead of using the land for farming and agriculture, many of the people sold their 'estates' back to the government a few years later to turn tiny profits. With these small fortunes, waves of people flocked to Lima in pursuit of better job opportunities. The result has been overpopulation in Lima and the abandonment of a corrupt governments attempt to better the economy. |
Upon arrival into Pisco, I couldn't believe my eyes. 90% of the town was in ruins. Only a few structures remained standing, and even those showed signs of crumbling foundations. Pisco was rocked by a gigantic earthquake (8.4) last August and is still on the road to recovery. Unfortunately though, being an extremely poor town already, there is very little funding available for re-building projects. Most families now live within the rubble that was once their homes. Make-shift roofs constucted of tarp and tin provide protection, held up by nothing more then loose cement blocks. Cracks from the quake can still be seen in the streets and small wooden crosses now stand where family and friends perished. The tragedy is still very much an open wound, re-opened daily by just glancing around town.
And just to clarify, I did not go to Pisco to see the quakes aftermath, I went for it's one main attraction: The Backpackers Galapagos Islands! Who wants to spend hundreds of dollars to see the Galapagos Islands wild life when you can see Peru's for 10 USD. Yeah, the cheapo in me wins out evertime. The boat ride was incredible, transporting a small group of us to a National Reserve where sea and bird life collide. Thousands of birds grace the skies daily, gliding effortlessly above the ocean in search of their next meal. Then, when the target is in sight, DIVE, DIVE! Like a bullet, they nose dive into the watery abyss, usually emerging victorious.
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As we neared Ballestas Islas, I heard what can only be described as a loud moaning coming from within the nearby caves. The source was nothing human, but instead animal. The faint outline of hundreds of blubbery bodies soon came into view and the source was discovered...sea lions. Momma and baby seals splashed around the shallows, while the males enjoyed game after game of King of the Hill. Condors, pelicans, and my favorite, Penguins, were never more then a stones throw away. One word of caution though: Be sure to keep your mouth closed while gazing in awe, otherwise you may very well get an unexpected treat. Guavo is the Peruvian term for bird poo and believe it or not, this poo brings in big bucks for locals. Guavo makes some of the best fertilizer in the world and provides one of the highest forms of income for Pisco locals. Now, that is some expensive sh**
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Carrying on south from Pisco myself, and 3 newly acquired Canadian amigas, discovered a tiny oasis village nestled in the Peruvian sand dunes, Huacachina. Surrounded by miles of dunes, this tiny lagoon appears as a desert mirage, swathed in palm trees and covered with brightly colored huts. Total backpacker scene. I spent the first night savoring the local drink, Pisco. Similar to port but mixed with a touch of rice wine. Yeah, let's just say it wouldn't be my first choice. However, thanks to the Pisco, my salsa dancing slowly improved as the night wore on...ok, so maybe I just thought it was getting better.
Pisco winery tours are not the only thing to do in Huacachina though...this is the sand boarding capital of the world. Sand buggies drop boarders atop mountains of sand, some reaching as high as 200 meters, and after a quick board waxing, you're off. Of course, their is the stomach option, but the real thrill is attempting to stand. I said, "attempting", as I'm still recovering from a wicked spill and finding sand in places I never knew existed. All worth it though for those 6 seconds of gloryl And just like any good oasis, one must savor the agua...either by the lagoon or in one of the many swim-up pool bars. Of course, I chose the lagoon...wink wink.
Next stop: Arequipa, Peru © |