to the beach . . . Northern zanzibar
After only a day of shopping, spices, fish kebabs and beautiful, but unswimmable, beaches, my Stellar Six (Nofar & Emanuel - Isreal, Amber – South Arica, Yanz - Sweden, Erin - Canada and Mua - Americano) embarked on our next adventure…to the exotic promises of Zanzibar’s northern shores.
Organizing a private hire van for the 1.5 hour journey north (a reasonable $4 each), our first stop was obvious…the liquor store. Warned about overpriced cocktails and exorbitant bar tabs, the northern beaches of Zanzibar are known for their insane parties and their insane prices!! Sure, if you’re visiting for a once a year, two-week holiday, $7 for a weak margarita or watered down cosmo may seem reasonable but for us, long term backpackers, Stone Town's $4, 750 ml bottles of vodka sounded much better…not to mention gin, rum and a 24-pack of beer…
Organizing a private hire van for the 1.5 hour journey north (a reasonable $4 each), our first stop was obvious…the liquor store. Warned about overpriced cocktails and exorbitant bar tabs, the northern beaches of Zanzibar are known for their insane parties and their insane prices!! Sure, if you’re visiting for a once a year, two-week holiday, $7 for a weak margarita or watered down cosmo may seem reasonable but for us, long term backpackers, Stone Town's $4, 750 ml bottles of vodka sounded much better…not to mention gin, rum and a 24-pack of beer…
So there we were. An incredible group of like-minded, fun-loving, free-spirited travelers all ready to party and have a good time. Let’s get moving!!
Whizzing up the islands lush interior, we passed dozens of overcrowded minibuses and I couldn’t help but laugh. That would usually be me. Squished in between livestock, bags and bodies. But here I was, amidst friends, enjoying the comfort of my own personal seat (not shared with another bum), in a well-ventilated, direct service van. Hot dog, I was living good! Again, why it pays to travel in groups whilst in Africa – a sentiment shared by all of us! |
The ease of our journey, not to mention the cheap rate, left us completely off guard for what was to come! 40 USD per night…for a dorm bed? Our first accommodation attempt, Sunset Bungalows, was a bust! Prices were fixed and their attitude was anything but backpacker. “Try Kendwa Rocks”, they recommended, “a more backpacker friendly accommodation next door.” Frustrated, but not defeated, we rerouted and reconfigured our bargaining strategy. Stressing our numbers, 6 paying clients for 3 nights, was not even enough for a deal. 20 USD for a dorm and again, no price fluctuation. Argh. Now I was pissed! Our driver, recognizing the monetary peril, suggested the last place on this stretch of beach, White Sands. A few simple profit analyzations and sweet talking was all it took to reduce the owners initial rate of $25/person to $15/person for 2 triple rooms with complimentary brekkie! SOLD!
Sharing the same expansive beach as the more expensive resorts, Kendwa Rocks and Sunset Bungalows, we victoriously raced into the powdery white sands and towards the promise of cool refreshment. Splashing into the Indian Oceans glittering waters we soaked in the last rays of sun, immortalizing that fiery Zanzibar sun sliding behind the horizon.
Unable to tear ourselves from the beach, even after the sun had long since retired, we moved 30-feet down the beach to the White Sands adjoining restaurant. Illuminated with charming tea lights, one long wooden table situated directly on the beach, called to us. Our waiter, the welcomed epitome of great customer service, practically sung out the daily fish specials along with a chorus of bottled beers. Exactly my kinda place. |
Slathered with a zesty caper sauce, my tuna was cooked to perfection and the side of chips (French fries for us Americanos) were actually crisp. Gobbling up every last bite, I did everything I could not to greedily lick the plate.
A few hours and a few beers later, we relocated next door - to the overpriced Sunset Bungalows and its coveted pool table. Proving just how terrible people can be at the game, we finally gave up our position to the more qualified Zanzi’s (Zanzibar men) patiently awaiting their turn. Ending the evening exactly how it began, on the beach, we talked into the wee hours of morning. Solving the world’s problems, developing a cure for cancer and discovering 5 new constellations. All in a nights work…with the help of Old Munk Rum ;)
A few hours and a few beers later, we relocated next door - to the overpriced Sunset Bungalows and its coveted pool table. Proving just how terrible people can be at the game, we finally gave up our position to the more qualified Zanzi’s (Zanzibar men) patiently awaiting their turn. Ending the evening exactly how it began, on the beach, we talked into the wee hours of morning. Solving the world’s problems, developing a cure for cancer and discovering 5 new constellations. All in a nights work…with the help of Old Munk Rum ;)
The following day was welcomed with the promise of rain. Argh. A hazy, overcast sky threatened all morning but it wasn’t until beginning our saunter up the beach that Mother Nature opened fire! Forced to take cover under a small cliff outcropping, we hunkered down next to a few local painters who sacrificed their work for their own comfort. Instead of racing around the beach to collect their dozens of exposed, vulnerable paintings, they patiently, almost confidently, watched the rains bead off. Not sure if they were trying to prove their pieces water resistant qualities, but all it did for me, was wash away a purchase. A rain soaked and dried, soaked and dried, painting…no thanks!
Marooned under the cliff, our sunny beach frustrations quickly morphed into thanks, as we watched an unexpected color spectacle unfold before us! Instead of muting the ocean colors, the rain only amplified. Greens were electric, blues were glowing and our eyes were sparkling! |
When the rains ceased, the girls and I concluded our walk at a local “restaurant” – a concrete box lined with plastic tables and quintessential child size plastic stools. The moment we sat down, all eyes were on us. The Mzungus! Our lunch choices, anything fried served with the daily special, a large vat of bubbling beef soup. The soup was borderline revolting but the plates of fried rice, potatoes and cold Coca-Cola’s made up for it.
As for our evening festivities…party, party, party! Putting on makeup, a forgotten luxury, and sporting our best, albeit crumpled and slightly smelly dresses, we all gathered for a few pre-drinks (poor Yanz, so much estrogen for one man). Transported back to my college days, we skulled random varieties of jungle juice while gossiping about, you guessed it, boys. Again, poor Yanz, who at this point devoted his attention to a latest novel.
Vision slightly blurred and large smiles on each of our glowing faces, we made, “to go”, cups before heading for sustenance…buffet style. The third hotel on our sandy stretch, Kendwa Rocks, offered a Saturday buffet that couldn’t be beat. Selecting rock lobster as the main protein, Amber and I split the feast and more so, the 20,000 Shilling price tag ($13) .
Post dinner festivities included a trip to the dance floor, where we remained for the entire night! An unexpected 5-star acrobatic performance followed by a Michael Jackson impersonator began the night but boy did we finished it! Shaking what our momma’s gave us, as only white girls can, a slew of Zanzi men soon honed in. Much shorter then they appeared from far away, the awkward level was on an all time high. Hmm…if his head is in my bosom and his arms are half the length of mine, how do we swing dance? Still not sure how it worked but we tore it up! My fav dance partners however, were the Masaai men, dressed in traditional plaid fabrics with long dreaded hair. Spear in one hand and clothes in the other (attempting to hold up their plaid wraps while doing the Macarena), the dancing was nothing short of hilarious! Rhianna on repeat mixed with a few saucy latino selections kept the dance floor rocking until the early hours once again creeped up on me. Wow, 2 late nights in a row…definitely back in college.
As for our evening festivities…party, party, party! Putting on makeup, a forgotten luxury, and sporting our best, albeit crumpled and slightly smelly dresses, we all gathered for a few pre-drinks (poor Yanz, so much estrogen for one man). Transported back to my college days, we skulled random varieties of jungle juice while gossiping about, you guessed it, boys. Again, poor Yanz, who at this point devoted his attention to a latest novel.
Vision slightly blurred and large smiles on each of our glowing faces, we made, “to go”, cups before heading for sustenance…buffet style. The third hotel on our sandy stretch, Kendwa Rocks, offered a Saturday buffet that couldn’t be beat. Selecting rock lobster as the main protein, Amber and I split the feast and more so, the 20,000 Shilling price tag ($13) .
Post dinner festivities included a trip to the dance floor, where we remained for the entire night! An unexpected 5-star acrobatic performance followed by a Michael Jackson impersonator began the night but boy did we finished it! Shaking what our momma’s gave us, as only white girls can, a slew of Zanzi men soon honed in. Much shorter then they appeared from far away, the awkward level was on an all time high. Hmm…if his head is in my bosom and his arms are half the length of mine, how do we swing dance? Still not sure how it worked but we tore it up! My fav dance partners however, were the Masaai men, dressed in traditional plaid fabrics with long dreaded hair. Spear in one hand and clothes in the other (attempting to hold up their plaid wraps while doing the Macarena), the dancing was nothing short of hilarious! Rhianna on repeat mixed with a few saucy latino selections kept the dance floor rocking until the early hours once again creeped up on me. Wow, 2 late nights in a row…definitely back in college.
Our final day on the beach could be summed up in two words, rest & relaxation. The only activities involving beachside henna tattoos and a few compulsive purchases. To say we had a great time would be an understatement. Zanzibar was exactly what each of us needed as were the friendships gained! Thanks again for all the memories and all the best to my Stellar Six (well 7 - Thomas, our Swiss counterpart, acquired over drinks and dancing :)