Have Pigeons flown the Cappadocia Coop?
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“Unique…intriguing…surreal…other-wordly, all adjectives echoed by just about every tourist
who lay eyes on Turkey’s Cappadocia Region - including myself.
who lay eyes on Turkey’s Cappadocia Region - including myself.
Famous for its rock-hewn churches, giant fairy chimneys and intricate underground cities, the area is a natural phenomenon. Thousands of years of volcanic eruptions, earthquakes and erosion carved out this magical region but can it survive today’s most recent threat, tourism?
Vroom! Vroom! Vroom! From dusk til dawn, tour buses drone in and out of Cappadocia’s epicenter, the town of Goreme. Tourists scuttled between the Goreme open-air museum, a quick walk in the fairy chimney valleys and then back to their cave hotel for a caveman like sleep in ancient rock carved accommodations. But aside from this somewhat superficial brush with living in the past, do we take the time to truly appreciate and learn the inner working of what makes the region so special and assess how we can help maintain it?
Guilty as charged. I put so much faith in UNESCO’s protective umbrella, I couldn’t see beyond the well-maintained and manicured sights. Then I met Yuksel. A soft-spoken weather worn local, Yuksel entered my life at the beginning of one of the most famous fairy chimney valleys, “Love Valley”. Whistling and skipping along the path, I offered my standard, “Merhaba”, as I passed. Before I knew it, a meal of sheep kidney, chilis and hot turnip juice was placed before me. Tearing bits of crusty bread off a gargantuan sized loaf, the preferred local utensil, I noticed Yuksel and his friends tossing occasional pieces towards a gathering of pigeons. “Are they natural to the area,” I casually inquired? His kind eyes wondered over to the congregating birds and as he offered the final morsel of bread, he sighed and began. |
“The pigeons were here long before us. They are natural, we are not.” He pointed to his friends modest pigeon shack, constructed of miscellaneous pieces of splintered wood. “My friend wants to bring them home”. The phrase caught me a bit off guard. “Bring them home”, I questioned. Gesturing to the numerous empty honeycomb niches carved out of the canyon walls, Yuksel continued. “For thousands of years, pigeons lived in the valleys. The pigeons ate the grain our ancestors put out for them and their droppings were collected to fertilize the fields. Pigeons were our friends, our livelihood.” The glimmer in his eyes recalled a simpler, more natural time. He explained how pigeon poo also acts like a cement. Their droppings harden and fortify the very fairy chimneys and cave floors that tourists come to see. “I had no idea pigeon poo could be so important”, I thoughtfully replied. “You and most others. These days our people are too concerned with tourists and not nature”. There it was. Tourisms evil twin.
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Discussing the issue at length under the relentless afternoon sun, I learned the best way to restore harmony between people and the pigeons is not by reducing tourism, but reducing vehicles, equipment and superfluous traffic. “Pigeons are not afraid of people, they have been living with us for centuries. Pigeons are afraid of unnatural creations,” Yuksel declared. And then, as if on cue, 3 ATV’s with young, foreigners behind the ignition rumbled past. The once peaceful pigeons fluttered into a discontented rage and I realized just how severe the situation is.
Hot air balloon rides are another challenge. The pigeons are afraid of the propane “whooshing” sounds. When the balloons drop in the valleys to impress tourists, they scare off pigeons. My heart dropped as Yuksel spoke about the balloons and I felt compelled to confess my sin. “I’ve taken one of those balloon trips. I had no idea.” He just smiled and reassured. “I don’t judge or condemn, just offer knowledge.” Cutting down the number of balloon companies along with minimizing ATV and motorcycle traffic is Yuksel’s primary goal.
Using his voice and educated hand to write proactive measures, Yuksel presents his concerns to the town council monthly. Falling on deaf ears most of the time, he is fiercely dedicated. “I will convince members to see beyond today’s tourism riches and look to the future repercussions.” |
The reason tourists come to Cappadocia, and the reason for it’s current state of wealth, is because of the landscape. Without pigeons fertilizing the landscape and fortifying the rock carvings, there won’t be anything to see in years to come.
Yuksel’s goal is simple but the task is large. We can help by treating Cappadocia more like the gem it truly is. Here’s how:
Yuksel’s goal is simple but the task is large. We can help by treating Cappadocia more like the gem it truly is. Here’s how:
· Walk – The area around Göreme, Üçhisar and Çavuşin is relatively small and everything can be reached on foot, if you allot a bit more time. The paths connecting each village follow beautiful valleys and gorges and provide a tourist site in themselves.
· Say No to ATV & Motorcycle Activities - Please avoid motorcycle and ATV excursions. Not only are they highly polluting, their sound scares away the pigeons. · Choose Balloon Company Wisely – Shop around and choose one of the most credible, longest established companies. They may cost a few dollars more but your business keeps the small, non-legit companies out (over 80 companies in business). One less balloon in the air is one less pigeon flying the proverbial coop. |
Yuksel reminded me of the two sides of tourism and I hope, in some small way, this blog also reminds you. Tourism is not a right, it’s a privilege and a responsibility. Please take care.
- If you're familiar with or were involved with any environmental efforts in areas you've traveled, please send Jauntaroo - Your Vacation Matchmaker an email detailing the project. Every month Jauntaroo features one such organization and donates $1 for every reservation made on their website. Check it out here: Jauntaroo - Travel with a Cause