¡Viva la Revolución!
A story of Guatemala's fight for freedom and two gringos fight to take flight.
A story of Guatemala's fight for freedom and two gringos fight to take flight.
If you didn’t know Guatemala’s history before visiting, you would never guess from the smiles on people’s faces what they have lived through - One of the most violent and deadly histories of any Central American nation.
What was the cause of Guatemala’s bloodshed? Just look at your breakfast. Coffee and bananas. Exports equal big dollars for small countries like Guatemala and money drives people to do unthinkable things! After years of oppression and human rights violations, indigenous people began to fight back! Raging between the repressive right wing dictators and left wing guerilla’s from, the Guatemalan Civil War lasted from 1960-1996. 36 years of war crimes, tortures, rapes, and systematic genocide. It’s estimated over 400 indigenous villages were massacred for their land and over 200,000 people killed. The war finally ended in 1996 when the UN criticized Guatemala for war crimes and the new president, Alvaro Arzu, signed a peace treaty with the rebels.
What was the cause of Guatemala’s bloodshed? Just look at your breakfast. Coffee and bananas. Exports equal big dollars for small countries like Guatemala and money drives people to do unthinkable things! After years of oppression and human rights violations, indigenous people began to fight back! Raging between the repressive right wing dictators and left wing guerilla’s from, the Guatemalan Civil War lasted from 1960-1996. 36 years of war crimes, tortures, rapes, and systematic genocide. It’s estimated over 400 indigenous villages were massacred for their land and over 200,000 people killed. The war finally ended in 1996 when the UN criticized Guatemala for war crimes and the new president, Alvaro Arzu, signed a peace treaty with the rebels.
The war is over, but the battle is not. Indigenous people continue to be oppressed in the wake of the almighty dollar but due to limited capital and resources, they possess only one weapon…their voice! Countrywide marches and political protests are growing in strength and regularity and it’s not uncommon to stumble upon one or many. Ironically, our only encounter occurred on our final day in this great country.
Departing bright and early from the jungle town of Lanquin, our Guatemala City bound collectivo slowly ground its way out of the lush valley. Crunching against gravel and bouncing between potholes we finally reached the top and with it, a rock barricade! Initially thought to be the product of a landslide, I assumed the locals standing nearest were attempting to move the hodge-podge of stones. I couldn’t have been more wrong! |
Large banners hung high overhead, proclaimed statements of revolution! Some protesters sitting on the rock barricade in stoic dissent while others stood tall, casting large indigenous flags into the breeze. There was no chanting, screaming or scolding. It was a silent protest. A protest of patience and persistence.
Recognizing that it was, in deed, a firm, no auto pass, demonstration we piled out of the collectivo to find answers. What were their complaints and how long would the barricade prevent further progress? We soon learned the dispute was over land rights. That the government had stolen land from the indigenous people and was selling it back for exorbitant interest rates. Such interest rates are preposterous for subsistence farmers to pay back and the locals were once again being forced off the land. Another grievance, water contamination issues. Large factories and dams were causing pollution and environmental carnage in their river systems thereby forcing locals to seek less viable water sources.
As for the protest duration, no one could answer definitely. Some claimed all day, others said until tomorrow, and the most vehement of all declared as long as it takes! All answers someone with an international flight the following day doesn’t want to hear!!
As for the protest duration, no one could answer definitely. Some claimed all day, others said until tomorrow, and the most vehement of all declared as long as it takes! All answers someone with an international flight the following day doesn’t want to hear!!
When our driver realized the gravity of the situation, he placed a call to his company for answers. What his boss had to say was far from comforting. "The protest is only one of many. Our rock barricade is the first of a series of 6 between Lanquin and Guatemala City (a 7-hour journey south). There is no other way out of Lanquin." His boss also said the protesters wouldn’t budge until Guatemalan authorities arrived for peace talks, which could be days. His solution was a retreat to Lanquin where we would wait in relative comfort until the road opened. Now remember, Lanquin is in the middle of the jungle and if we returned with the tour company we would never really know when the protest cleared. Say it cleared at 4 p.m. but the tour company decided it was more profitable to send everyone the next day, claiming the protest was still raging, we would be forced to believe them and inevitably, miss our flight.
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"Lo siento senor...that just won't due". To our driver’s dismay, our entire bus was content to wait at the barricade for the same reason. Loading up on bananas and graham crackers from the only tienda we settled in for a long, sweltering day.
After a few hours rolled past, our driver returned saying another barricade had been set just below our position and he couldn’t drive us to Lanquin anyways. We were, quite literally, stuck between a rock and a hard place. His company was instead sending a truck to pick up those tourists willing to return to Lanquin. Most the tourist in our bus were now conceding but for Clay and I, decision time was upon us! Walk across the barricade and hope for a ride on the other side or put faith in our transport company. |
Banding together with tourists who arrived shortly after us, we soon unearthed a few big lies. First, the only barricade lying between our position and the next big city of Coban (2 hours away), was the small rock wall directly before us. We also learned that lorries and collectivos were running people to Coban via a series of small villages. It was a lot of hoop jumping, but it was jumping in the right direction. Our choice was no longer defined by the tour company. Snatching back half of our originally paid fare from our reluctant driver, we strapped on our packs and waved adios to our foreign friends.
Trudging past the barricade we wished the indigenous good luck in their endeavor and continued down the roasting highway. Not even 10-minute into our journey, a green lorrie bed emerged in the distance. “Coban?” You know it senor!
Climbing onto the truck bed, our relief was evident. Nestled between local farmers and mothers of three, I watched the world whip past from between wooden slats. Stopping to pick up anyone and everyone who needed a lift, each of their faces greeted us with a smile and a willingness to help us along the way. I felt closer to Guatemala and it’s people then in the entire 2-weeks prior.
Climbing onto the truck bed, our relief was evident. Nestled between local farmers and mothers of three, I watched the world whip past from between wooden slats. Stopping to pick up anyone and everyone who needed a lift, each of their faces greeted us with a smile and a willingness to help us along the way. I felt closer to Guatemala and it’s people then in the entire 2-weeks prior.
The lorrie was only the first of three more random transport services necessary to reach Coban, but after a bit of hoop jumping and a lot of local help, we made it. Expecting to catch another series of collectivo’s south, Coban held one more round of good traveler karma…a direct bus to Guatemala City! Apparently the barricades of earlier in the day were long gone and we had a straight shot. More importantly, we wouldn’t miss our flight!
Crossing the protest barricade was as easy as three steps but it was the mental block we had to move past, an issue all travelers encounter. Going out of your comfort zone and relying on the people and the country you are there to see. We only hope the indigenous efforts pay off and the government who continues to suppress, realizes their crimes. These are your countrymen and the heart of Guatemala. ¡Viva la Revolución!
Crossing the protest barricade was as easy as three steps but it was the mental block we had to move past, an issue all travelers encounter. Going out of your comfort zone and relying on the people and the country you are there to see. We only hope the indigenous efforts pay off and the government who continues to suppress, realizes their crimes. These are your countrymen and the heart of Guatemala. ¡Viva la Revolución!
Check out my YouTube Special entitled, "Viva la Revolucion!"