Must be seen to BELIZE!
Deep turquoise waters, expansive white sand beaches, palm fringed shores…uh, what island are you on? Located just off the mainland of Belize, the tourist-acclaimed cayes (islands) are not a typical holiday paradise. Sure they have the laid back, breezy persona that only a Caribbean island can, but when it comes to beaches and waves, ironically, you’ll have to look elsewhere. Situated atop the second largest reef system in the world, a mixture of limestone and coral create a shallow ocean floor extending for miles into the Caribbean Sea. You could practically walk a mile out to sea before ever requiring a swim. And when it comes to beaches, uh, what beaches? The natural mangrove lined shores hide what sandy shores could have been while patches of trapped sea grass deter many swimmers. The few palm tree lined beaches that do exist are products of wealthy resorts continuous grooming efforts. So why do so many tourists flock to the cayes? How about excellent snorkeling, world-class scuba diving, windsurfing, fusion cuisine, unique culture and of course, loads of R & R. |
Home to a mixture of Latino, Mestizo and Creole influences, not even the locals can describe their identity. Relating primarily to their ancestral origins but united under one Belizean flag. The language also reflects this cultural blend. A Spanish base with incomprehensible Creole overtones laced in Bob Marley slang. Most of the time you can’t understand what locals are saying and find yourself responding the way the island hero (Mr. Marley himself) would, “Yah Man”.
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As for the island makeup, well, it too is an amalgamation of cultures. Bright green and pastel pink wooden homes lined with lazy hammocks welcome you in traditional Caribbean style but the town architecture and feel is strangely colonial. Wrap around decks, ornate pillared entries and white picket fences standing as reminders of the islanders struggle and success over European colonialism.
The largest and most commercialized island, Ambergris Caye, is the main port of call for tourists. San Pedro, the main (and only city) is geared more to the elite, resort-style traveler. Offering private houses, yoga retreats, monthly rentals or thatched roof cabanas on the beach. The caye also offers a unique form of transporation…golf carts. Souped up with off road tires and gasoline engines, these carts are no joke. A sign of status for most resort goers, these overpriced toys wiz up and down the main drag from morning to night. Holding hands with your beau, let alone walking alongside a friend, is damn near impossible when dodging these motorized monsters.
Leading out of the city center, is the town’s main transportation artery. A narrow, partially paved road running the length of the island. The road not only provides a trade route for locals it gives tourists a method of exploration. But be careful how far north you travel. The paved portion stops abruptly and not even the pimped out golf carts can handle mud, bumps and unexpected wash outs. |
The increase in commercialism inevitably brings an increase in price and many backpackers like myself, find Amergris Caye, at the top of our frugal budgets. Managing to find one of the cheapest rooms in town, a hot stuffy pad for $30 USD/night, we spent the rest of our Ambergis days seeking the cheapest eats, entertainment and transport. Highlights included a free Bob Marley tribute concert where all the local rasta’s belted out their favorite songs through plant glazed eyes.
Another budget friendly day occurred at the famous Palapas Bar. A two-story, thatched roof bar, located at the end of a long pier, offers reasonably priced beers and the coolest bar stools in town, intertubes. |
Floating the day away with sun on your face and ice cold Belikins delivered to your tube. Anther way to save money was hitch hiking. Golf carts with available space and usually a half-intoxicated driver, proved the most successful targets. And as for cheap eats, head no further then Naru’s Tacos. Can’t go wrong with 3 marinated chicken tacos and a sweet banana smoothie for two bucks.
After a few days scrimping around Ambergris, we made the traditional backpacker migration to Caye Caulker, the smaller, cheaper sister island.
Caye Caulker bumps and jives to a beat all its own. Consisting of only two streets, appropriately named, “Front” and “Back” Street, the island can be walked from tip to toe in under an hour. This means the necessity for golf cart transportation is limited and walking resumes the main form of transport.
Caye Caulker bumps and jives to a beat all its own. Consisting of only two streets, appropriately named, “Front” and “Back” Street, the island can be walked from tip to toe in under an hour. This means the necessity for golf cart transportation is limited and walking resumes the main form of transport.
Backpackers also love Caye Caulker for it’s noticeably cheaper prices. Restaurant bills easily cut in half along with a wide assortment of cheap eats. Local establishments like Martina’s serve up fall off the bone, creole-style chicken thighs, spicy rice and beans and caramelized plantains for a price and flavor that keeps backpackers coming back (7 BZD – 3.50 USD). Another great dig, the “Budget Man”. Setting up shot in the center of town, the Budget Man cooks up new and exciting creole and jerk inspired meals every day. But don’t wait too long. When his delicious food is gone, so is he.
The island also offers an array of inexpensive accommodations ranging from basic cabanas to vivid, bright dormitories on the shore. Dorm rooms go for as cheap as 5 USD/night while double bed cabana’s can be snagged for $12 USD. About the only part of Caye Caulker which resembles it’s big sister, are the lack of beaches. The most popular sand spot located on the northern tip of the island, known as the “Split”. Enlivened by a two-story watering hole, the split provides a fun day in the sun.
Caye Caulker was definitely more my speed but there was also one more prized element offered…scuba diving. A jumping off point to the famed, “Blue Hole”. |