Playa el tunco
A haven for surfers, sanctuary for weary travelers and weekend escape for wealthy San Salvadorans,
Playa El Tunco has become an El Salvador hotspot!
Playa El Tunco has become an El Salvador hotspot!
An easy two-hour chicken bus ride from the busy capital city of San Salvador, El Tunco is one of many tranquil beachside communes dotting the Pacific Coast. What makes El Tunco more appealing then the others, however, is a consistent point break drawing thousands of local and foreign surfers alike to its shores.
Hidden just off the main highway, El Tunco consists of two main streets. One leading to and from the highway, the other bisecting it and running to the beach. Dozens of thatched roof restaurants, relaxed hostels and local cantinas line both streets along with a collection of beach blonde, tanned surfer dude and dudettes. Roaming between the streets and surf from sun up to sun down, this assortment of travelers eat, sleep and breathe SURF.
Hidden just off the main highway, El Tunco consists of two main streets. One leading to and from the highway, the other bisecting it and running to the beach. Dozens of thatched roof restaurants, relaxed hostels and local cantinas line both streets along with a collection of beach blonde, tanned surfer dude and dudettes. Roaming between the streets and surf from sun up to sun down, this assortment of travelers eat, sleep and breathe SURF.
But despite the influx of international surfers, the atmosphere is a balanced mix of western and traditional. Burgers, pizzas, smoothies, and pancakes, for instance, can be found on every menu along with more localized selections such as fried chicken dinners, carne asada’s and Papusa’s (corn flour tortilla’s filled with beans and cheese).
Nightlife is also a mix of local and foreign influences. Every bar in town offering their version of happy hour with dance parties, live bands, and d.j.’s rocking out until the early hours. Arriving by the car full, young women in stilettos and men with hair greased to glistening perfection arrive from San Salvador with one thing on their minds…party! |
Families, on the other hand, come to Playa El Tunco for more of the day activities. Namely, the beach! Racing into the warm Pacific waters, city slickers splash the day away. Some sporting risqué designer swimsuits and Gucci sunnies while others are happy to swim in whatever clothes they happen to be wearing. Beachside soccer was another favorite activity. Using mounds of sand as goal posts, these games spread the width of the beach and involved all family members, willing or not. Another more unique “sport” was sand throwing, where family and friends would chase each other up and down the beach, flinging wads of muddy sand at one another. I'm still not quite sure who was deemed the winner, the least or the most dirty participants. And when it was time for their version of a "beach break" - a bite to eat and cold cerveza’s - families retired to their cabanas. Complete with tables, chairs, hammocks, BBQ's, personal chef’s and shot gun equipped security guards.
The packed beach was an expression of culture, the packed surf, however, was just an annoyance. While novice surfers, such as myself, tried to learn in the shallows, slews of Salvadorans would flop around in the waves we were trying to catch. Not even my out of control, 9-foot foam board hitting them in the head, neck and backs, could encourage their retreat. And this was only the congestion for beginner surfers. Let’s talk about the break!
The packed beach was an expression of culture, the packed surf, however, was just an annoyance. While novice surfers, such as myself, tried to learn in the shallows, slews of Salvadorans would flop around in the waves we were trying to catch. Not even my out of control, 9-foot foam board hitting them in the head, neck and backs, could encourage their retreat. And this was only the congestion for beginner surfers. Let’s talk about the break!
As mentioned before, the point break is what makes Playa El Tunco famous to surfers. A consistent wave that can grow up to 10-feet depending on the swell. Accommodating experienced and inexperienced surfers - although the elite surfers would probably prefer you stay out of their way - the wave calls to everyone with a board. Add the weekend crowds of city surfers to this already congested break and you are riding a wave of patience. Not only waiting for the perfect wave but waiting for your turn to take a wave.
Just the paddle out was exhausting enough but by the time I reached the back of the break, I was overwhelmed by just how many people I had to contend with. Positioning myself and looking for the perfect wave was not enough. I had to be the first one on that wave or risk breaking the code of surfer ethics, "Never drop in on someone". Then again, the only person being dropped was me. The waves were much larger then I anticipated and after a good hour of battering and catching only one miniscule wave, I retreated to shore. Guess my surfing abilities lie on the net or TV. Most foreign tourists, surfer or not, arrive to Playa El Tunco expecting to stay a few days…but allow for many more! |