The Real Peru
Hailing from the great midwest, where suburbia rules the day and public transport is considered more of a faux pas then a faux "do", I have discovered one of my favorite travel past times. Whether it's train rides through the picturesque Swiss Alps, rocky ferry rides between Fijian island paradises, or mastering the intricate tube systems of London, count me in for anything other then my '98 Honda Accord and Interstate 80. Peru, lacking many of these more "appealing" transport options, instead offers some of the most eye-opening alternatives available…Peruvian mini-buses. Not only providing cheap, nickel and dime city tours, these rides provide an education as to what lies outside the tourist circuit...The Real Peru.
Packed in like sardines with sweat and body odor consuming the little air left, all the while holding on for dear life around hair pin turns...sounds great, right? And let's not forget the pint-size seating (usually standing) arrangements, occassional upchuck reflex testing, and the famous "have to use the potty" sitting technique perfected on those long distance stretches. Finally, where else can you see a flash business man, clean shaven and sporting a designer briefcase, sharing a seat with an unwashed beggar and a farmer, hands full of the days pickings? Goes to show you that not even the "richest" of locals can afford vehicles of their own. Although often difficult to enjoy these cramped quarters, the mental escape from your world into those of so many others wizzing by, is well worth the journey.
Chachani Bus Rides: |
Aggression is key. If you are not passing on the right, skimming over medians, and honking at everything that moves, you would never get anywhere. From the dazzling white walls of Plaza de Armas, to the arid countryside showcasing Misti, Chachani, and Pichu Pichu Volcano's, terminating in the garbage laden slum of Villa Chachani, the landscape could not change more drastically. These stark contrasts are the Real Peru.
Women often carry their entire lives possessions on their back, overflowing with anything from fruits, to building materials and, more often then not, children. More capable of physical labor then an NFL linebacker, these women are the Real Peru.
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Human scenery also changes dramatically. From the trendy suit and tie dotted districts of Arequipa, to the traditionally dressed women subsisting on her outskirts, rocking the look that can only be described as Clint Eastwood meets Larry, Mo, and Curly of the 3 Stooges. Cowboy hat functionality collides with the stylish roaring 20's bowlers hat, to create this tall bodied, short rimmed masterpiece. Complimented with thick, layered skirts, colorful cotton blouses and two braids falling loosely behind, the look is almost complete. The last element, happening to be the most distinct, is a coarse, multi-colored blanket wrapped around their shoulders and fastened in the front with a large fabric knot.
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Homes also become progressively more run down as the ride carries on. Secured with cheap mortar, broken bottles, pieces of tin, and shards of glass are spread evenly across exterior home walls to create the best kind of security system Peru can offer. A poor man's barb wire. Another precaution taken comes with a bite, as it is not uncommon for households to have 2, 3, even 4 perro's (dogs). What is uncommon though, is where these pooches reside...on the roof. I'm no expert on this line of work, but if I were a thief and saw a dog on the roof, pretty sure I would just take the easy way in...ground level. However, if their purpose is solely to scare, these mangy mutts succeed tremendously. This too, is the Real Peru.
As tourists, we typically only see what we are "supposed" to see. Paraded around from monument to museum, reading about history and culture, when the real thing lies just outside our door. Break the circuit and discover what's Real!©